Fluid Detail

Getting Hurled Across Lake Tahoe

2012-01-16T14:19:00.002-08:00

The forecast was for WSW winds sustained 25mph with stronger gusts, generating 6ft swells near the northeast shores of Lake Tahoe. A green light for a 10 downwind run on our 1 man Outrigger Canoes (OC-1). Wrapped snugly in our Kokatat dry suits, we decided to sneak out further into the Lake to Dollar Point for a good angle on the wind to get us to Incline Beach.
That meant a 3 mile hammer into the wind that took an entire hour. But when we got to the protected side of the point, the 4-6ft swell was freight training past and it looked like we were going to have an epic run. About a mile off the point we started to really feel the wind and it was a bit more than forecasted. Easy 40 with gusts to 50? was a little concerning but when a handfull of 10ft+, 40 degree water ice bombs started to break on our heads, it changes the margins.

After Jay and I got splattered that first time we pulled in closer together and enjoyed the 4-6ft runners. About midway across, 2 miles off Kings Beach and about 4 miles from our destination, the freak 10 footers became the norm. My main concern was the early model John Puakea, Kaku that I was on. Part of our rental fleet of OC-1's at our shop, Watermans Landing it was well used and solid, about 12 yrs old, but at 22 ft long, it is more of a flatwater boat. It was getting slotted into the runners perfectly but after the bigger ones were smacking us down with a couple of feet of whitewater, the creaks and groans became more noticeable

Of course we put in a bit later than we wanted with the car shuttle, so still about a mile out it was after sunset. It gets rather cold here after dark in the Sierra's in January so there wasn't much deliberating about getting into the beach through the shore break. I got in on the back of one that was just lucky because the one behind me had some intentions. Jay must have been getting warm in his suit because he decided to go for a little swim inside the surf zone, managed to hold onto all his gear and got back on for a ride

onto the sand.

After we got changed we headed back to gather up the yard sale we left on the beach after running to the car to get out of the wind. Jay's ama sustained some gel coat damage, probably on the beach but mine was a different story. The rear ama bolt was grotesquely bent and the front one simply dropped into the ama after unscrewing it, tore completely off by one of the beastie beat downs. I was bummed because it's the fastest OC-1 that I have, but overwhelmingly grateful for the Kaku holding up and getting me safely to shore. Mahalo John Puakea!!!

Oh yeah, then it started to snow....

Will post some of the GoPro footage after we can look at it.

Ronnie

Lake Tahoe's Jay Wild selected to represent U.S. in World SUP Champs in Peru

2012-01-08T11:28:00.000-08:00

January 6, 2012

Costa Mesa, CA- Lake Tahoe resident and HOBIE athlete, Jay Wild, has been selected as a member of theUnited States Standup Paddleboard Team to represent the U.S.A in the upcoming World Championship in Miraflores, Peru, Feb. 20-25.The first of its kind event pits individual standup athletes together into a team event, much like the Davis Cup in tennis or golf’s Ryder Cup.

Wild will compete in the Standup Paddle (SUP) Elite Race event, a 4.5km technical slalom course around buoys placed inside the surf zone.Elite race courses are typically the most exciting for spectators due to the intentional challenging design of the course and frequent collisions in the surf.

Joining Wild on the U.S. team is Matt Becker from Santa Barbara who will also compete in the Elite Race, Rob Rojas from Dana Point will handle the Distance race and former World Longboard Champion, Colin McPhillips from San Clemente will compete in the SUP Surf event with Florida’s Sean Poytner. On the womens team is Brandi Baksic (Distance and Elite race), Gillian Gibree (Prone paddleboard) and Emmy Merrill (Surf).

Top contending countries include a stacked Australian team, the U.S. team and a yet to be announced Hawaiian team. The SUP World Championships is considered to be a showcase for the Olympic viability of the sport with an international field of athletes.

Wild's success as a SUP racer and his selection to the U.S. Team marks a shift from the dominance of athletes who live and train in coastal regions. Lake Tahoe is considered one of the flatwater SUP destinations in the world and the popularity of the sport has grown in the past few years to include 7 races in Tahoe and this summer, the first ever multi sport SUP event.

For more information on SUP, races and products visit Tahoe’s year round SUP shop and Cafe, Watermans Landing 5166 N. Lake Blvd, Carnelian Bay. 530.546.3590

River Race?

2011-05-21T17:29:00.000-07:00

The first thing I learned about river races is that they start on time! Must be a kayaker thing... So, as I drove around Reno with a truck full of would be first time river racers from Tahoe, frantically looking for the upriver start, all passengers were trying to reach someone on their cells to stall another minute. It worked!
The swollen Truckee River was raging, class 3, whatever that means. Alls I know is that when I hit the ripping water to paddle upriver on the start line, I was like a cat on a see-saw, trying to dig my nails into the board. It really was an all new sensation, so many dynamics to get used to. After the start horn, I was still pointed up stream, going backwards, unsure how to spin around in water moving as fast as I could paddle.
Its only a 4 mile race and you are being blasted towards downtown Reno on a torrent of freshly melted snow. Low branches and limbs threaten anytime you try to stay out of the heavy rips. And they rush at you much faster than you are used to traveling. At least twice I took a shot to the helmet that would have taken some of my scalp.
Then I dropped my paddle. About 4 mins into it, fell off akwardly and had to use both hands to grab my board. Funny how instincts work. So I am rifling down the rapids, paddle behind me. First thoughts were that, hey I am still moving hella fast even without a paddle! Not exactly a competitive position however. The safety kayak had even moved in for a closer look at my edge of panic expression. That was motivating! The paddle got past me but now I could race after it downstream prone paddling.
OK, I get to it, much to the safety guys delight. but I am back about mid pack of 20 some racers. I could care less, just glad that my hands are out of the liquid snow.
I feel way more alert and determined that will not happen again. I can still see Dan Gavere ahead and I start trying to take his line and maybe learn something from all this.
Eventually I am able to pick my way even with the two other guys in position for 3rd place, and we all take the final drops(I call them little waterfalls), across the finish line. I blew the first one and gave away a place, nailed the final flume and preserved 4th. I was stoked! Stoked to get the hell out of that water and think about what just happened.
Congrats to Dan and Nikki, #1 M and F!
I would guess it was the roughest SUP boarder cross river race to date. If not, it was still the race that gave me the most butterflies ever.
If you havent done one of these, there is a part of your brain that is not being used...
photos: Corey Engles

Exploring Catalina Island

2011-03-16T23:23:00.000-07:00

Fortunate. Thats the only word that comes to mind to describe how I feel about my experience of going to Catalina Island for the first time. I have traveled to places where I was forced to eat my heart out. Gorgeous water and no access to a vehicle to get on the water. Hell.
This was the opposite. Lots of water, all different kinds, plenty of boards and plenty of coastline to poke around. It was encouraged. I dont think anyone told me once "dont do that". My time in the water around Catalina has been peeling back like an onion in the week since we got back.
Writing this series for SUP Magazine has been the icing on the cake. The chance to relive those moments is like doing it twice. The only hard part is finding the words to fit. Well here is my attempt at just that. Enjoy!

photos:Fuze Group

http://www.supthemag.com/features/field-notes-exploring-catalina-island/

2011-02-08T20:15:00.000-08:00

Snowshoe running is a big part of my off season training. Living in the High Sierras, the opportunity to standup paddle in the dead of winter is spotty and nothing to set your watch or by. So to keep a level of fitness, myself and all the Lake Tahoe competitive SUP racers get creative with snowsports.
They say "You come for the winter and stay for the Summer" here in Tahoe, so if you moved here, you did so for snow. Winter is hectic. Everyone is busy with work. Off Season SUP on the Lake means IN SEASON for the mountains. While climates like So Cal enjoy a year round paddling season, logically producing the bulk of the top athletes in the sport, everyone here was at one time, here for the snow. So we do stuff thats fun in the snow.
Even if I could just snowboard all day it wouldnt do much for my fitness. So, given the need to continue to strengthen my knee just 1 year out of the surgery, I snowshoe run. I never really enjoyed running but I would do it for the cardio and leg strength. Snowshoe running is so much more enjoyable and really hits the gas on the heart rate. Where I found running boring, snowshoeing requires complete focus with every foot placement, sliding and shifting and deeper snow feels like dashing through the surf.
Boca Resevoir, shown here with me goofin around is just down the hill from home and I follow trails around the shore carved in by cross country skiers and snowshoes. Kids clear off the ice to play hockey and fishing holes are drilled and manned. My legs are getting stronger and I realize how weak my knee was last summer. Snowshoe running seems to go right at what weakness I feared the most in my knee. the side to side slipping and pulling the foot up out of deeper snow really burn.
It may or not be the next greatest thing to becoming a better paddler but its exactly what is good for me right now.

Happy New Year

2011-01-02T20:33:00.000-08:00

The year has left and I am glad to see him go. 2010 was a trial for me from Day 1. Actually 7 days before it started when I destroyed my knee. Surgery in January and the ensuing recovery that had lots of ups and downs, off a board until April but never taking a running stride until August. August of course was the Staph infection from Hell in my leg that wiped out the last half of the summer for me competitively.
It was not exactly the kinda comeback I had in mind but there were early season wins and my only prize money as an athlete in any sport, 4th in the 22mile Tahoe crossing was a nice shot in the arm.
Fall and early Winter for me have been an easy go of it just focusing on staying healthy and uninjured and ahead of where I was last year. So far so good. Swimming is again a major player in my fitness and I have to remember that too much too fast when swimming equals injury.
This last month has been exciting as my role as a social media consultant for Tahoe SUP has increased. The enjoyment of editing and writing for a company and a sport that I am very passionate about brings out the best of my skills. I am looking forward to future projects, my future involvement and the future of the sport of SUP.
I am most grateful though this past year, to have bought my first home. And have my family and I, living in one of the most beautiful places in the world. A big change from Maui and Hawaii, but I still see things on my way to work that make me say whoa! I guess I will never live somehwere that doesnt get that.
Here's to the best year ever!!!

Always with Smile

2010-10-26T22:01:00.000-07:00

Life has been crazy. Crazy enough I think to call it crazy. With the paddling season coming to its hectic end, simultaneously rushing to finish the remodel of our new house and working and still wondering if I am healthy enough to do this kinda stuff. The Staph and my ensuing stripped out system from killing it with antibiotics kept me entirely from training for over a month. And where you do pay for that? At the SUPer Bowl of standup, the Battle of the Paddle. While the back to back races the weekend before would still be effecting my performance, you cant fake your way through a race like this. race pace Paddling, surfing, (swimming) and running for well over an hour will pretty much take it all out of you. Needless to say it was a very poor race for me. I was drained.
Its the experience of being there in Dana Point for that weekend that can really take your mind off poor results. That with a building swell all weekend and about 100 different stand up surfboards and race boards to demo. My surf starved, lake legs give way to sea legs and having some great fun. Paddling out with friends Kai and Ridge Lenny and watching how they have progressed on Maui is just amazing. The scene is electric and once again has established itself as the premier event in the world.
So thats the season for me. Started good, ran into more obstacles, got shut down, but finished having alot of fun. I dont suppose I would have done any of the second half season races if it wasnt alot of fun. We just returned from a few days in Santa Cruz and S.F. and of course I had my boards with me. Dreamy point breaks in Santa Cruz and smooth kelp softened water left me wanting to explore more around there and S.F. was just bad weather and kept me out of the water. Its only 3 hours away so I am sure it will be on a list again soon.
I would like to deeply thank Tahoe SUP for their support and the quality boards and products they produce. Look for this coming year a production race board "Z Elite", race technology influenced touring boards, new colors for the womens SUP the "Bliss", paddles and an expanded line of apparel.
For me its an off season full of mountain biking, swimming, snowshoeing and a highly anticipated return to snowboarding. Maybe some crossfit? But definitely getting out to paddle on new waters and explore new coasts. Thats what its all about.

Lost Month

2010-09-30T16:28:00.001-07:00

Something had to give. But I didnt see this one coming. The daily stress of closing escrow and all the bank bullshit, work, living without internet because of a slumlords sketchy runnings and also training at the highest intensity of my life, all were secretly planning a physical overthrow of my system. It was only a couple of days away from the closing date on the house and my biggest race of the year. The race that I was hoping would put me in the mix with the top names in the world. I felt that good, fast and at a point where I wouldnt mention recovering or comeback anymore. I would just be.
It started with flu like symptoms followng my workout on a gorgeous sunny late August day. After 24 hrs in bed sweating like a madman, I noticed a red hot lump on my shin that was far from right. No visible cuts either so decided to give it to the morning to be alarmed. Then nearly panicking in the waiting room of the doctors office, red lines growing up my thigh and my shinbone red and spongey. MRCA? Flesh eating? I can act like a hyperchondriac when I want too. There was a debate whether or not they wanted to E.R. me now, or wait to see what a pennicilan shot would do. Took the shot and waited. Next day, same thing. Another shot of pennicilan. "We dont give 3 so tomorrow if no change you are going to the hospital."
After the shot I limped down to the beach to watch the Elite race I had been waiting a full year to do. It was rough, but I knew I was dealing with a real health risk. The house closed the next day, the leg started to clear up as well. It was scarey. My skin continued to crawl all over like something still wasnt right. For almost a month.
I didnt have the desire to exert the kind of energy it takes to train for standup paddling. I had so much work to do on the house that there was no time anyway for paddling. I had a metalic taste in my mouth. I wasnt out of the woods.
Scott Estrada got me on the path with some probiotic protocol and only then could I feel I was getting some push back.
Now it was the end of September a busy race weekend in Tahoe looming, The 22 mile Tahoe crossing followed the next day by the Naish U.S. flatwater Championship. These races would have been my 'A' list races but now I was hoping to finish and try to take out the competition equation. I wavered a couple of times in the days before crossing, but ultimately I woke on the day of and felt pretty good. I finished 4th in the pro Elite division and took home my first SUP payday. The race was beautiful and I felt comfortable most of the race, trying not to be discouraged by my pace and just enjoying the view from the middle of the Lake. After 3 hours though, I had to be very careful as muscle cramps were more frequent and the finish seemed stationary. Got er done.
It felt suprisingly good to get back into race pace the next day for the Naish race. only 6 miles so it was going to be a higher intensity, but I just let if fly. First half felt good and I pushed into 3rd place at the turn. I didnt have much left to come home with and finished 5th.
4 days later, I am packing a bag and ready to head down to Dana Point for SUPer bowl of sup, the Battle of the Paddle. I have removed any expectations of my performance from missing this past month of training. But since I have started feeling so much better this week I am looking forward to the race, the excitement and the atmosphere. The Battle is where you know everyone brings their A game and wherever you are in the field there is someone next to you to race against. Stoked to hear there will be some surf as well. Thats something we dont get any of here in Tahoe! Good Luck to all racers!
See you there.

Lessons Learned

2010-08-14T12:58:00.000-07:00

All the anticipation and excitement I had about the H2O Overdrive SUP CUP in Park City, Utah, 2 weeks ago was quickly turning into concern and doubt during my warmup around the course. The venue was a small resevoir,Jordanelle State Park, known for high winds and high wake boarding traffic. The result was a very difficult, multi direction boat chopped up course, featuring a little 180 degree zig zag bouy. And a real short, beach run in between the 4, 1.25mile laps.
Running is still on my list of things to do since the knee surgery but it was hardly longer than an few strides after jumping off the board, round a flag and hopping back on the board. What concerned me most was handling the constant side chop and tricky bouy turns. My TahoeSup Z Elite 14ft is super fast in the flats but with the edgey rails and enivetable fatiguing of my knee from this kind of conditions I was doubting how much energy I would spend on just trying to stay on the board.
Off the start, Riggs Napoleon, falls on like the second stroke and locks up with my board and we are in the back. I am amazed how he could stand up at all on a 12ft prone in those conditions. Once I got going on the first lap though, my board ran great on the long upwind backstretch and I picked up some distance. It turned out not to be the choppy conditions that would hinder me the most but negotiating all the buoy turns. It was crucial to be able to step back and pivot the board on the turns. I couldnt. Didnt have the confidence and did not want to fall. So each time consuming turn had me trying to sweep on the outside sending me way too wide each time. On the 3rd lap I got into a nice groove only to get hung up on a buoy when my board got lassoed and I had to get off to free it. I finished a frustrated 12th place.
The idea of going to this race, for Jay and me, was to compete against the top guys, see where we stand and find out what areas of our game need improvement. Mine was glaringly obvious. More leg stregnth and more confidence to compete on a course like that.
Jay's performance lifted my spirits though. Also on a 14ft Z Elite, He finished 4th, in the money, just behind Byron Kurt. Slater won going away, followed by fellow swimmer Rob Rojas.
There would be no time to sulk for me or celebrate for Jay, as we had to jam back to Salt Lake to catch our flight home. Way late for our flight, checked our paddles 20 mins before takeoff and they let us try to make it to the gate. So....more running!! This time in slippers through the longest terminal ever. Not what the doctor ordered. But with some loud yelling and some rude line jumping we and our paddles made the flight. Apologies to any small children I may have heismaned along the way. I was back at work by 7pm that evening. Ouch.
In the end, the experience of racing against those guys, meeting them and others in the industry was very positive. There is so much enthusiasm surrounding the sport of SUP and events like this one offer something for everyone at all ability levels. The foundation that is being built not only by the SUP companies and the products they offer but by the quality of the people who represent them out front and behind the scenes is one of the reasons that this sport has seen such growth.
See for yourself at the Taho-e-Nalu August 21, 22nd right here in Kings Beach on Lake Tahoe.

H2O Overdrive SUP CUP, Park City Utah

2010-08-03T14:09:00.000-07:00

Jay Wild places 4th against national field in Utah race
Aug 02, 2010
Jordanelle Resevoir, Park City, Utah- The H2O Overdrive National SUP CUP held July 31st wasnt even a blip on the SUP radar a month ago. But behind the promotional wizardry of Barret Tester and proximity of the Outdoor Retailer Expo, this quickly forming event drew the attention of a national field and developed into a force of nature.
Jay Wild and Ronnie Ayres fromTeam Tahoe SUP couldnt resist either, with cash prizes and similar altitude to Lake Tahoe, the race fell into an empty slot on the calender and a chance to line up with some of the best racers out there. Advertised as a race that would test technical skills, the course was set similar to a Battle of the Paddle with four, 1.25 mile laps, beach runs in between each (in this case rock runs!) but with a couple of added twists. On the final stretch of each lap was a zig zag with a 180 degree right turn that sent you back upwind to a 180 left turn about 100 yards away. Another man made obstacle was the thick wakeboard boat traffic that buzzed around the outside of the course creating conditions similar to dropping bricks into a bath tub. The only constant was the gusty south wind.
$100 bucks was also up grabs for the male and female leader of the 1st and 3rd laps. After one lap, Slater Trout would grab the lead and the cash, Jay in the pack in 7th place, followed by Ronnie and another group of paddlers. Overcoming a bit of bad luck in the transition into the 3rd lap and losing some ground, Jay was able to start picking up time in the straightaways and was closing in on the top 3. Ronnie would also get tied up (literally) rounding a buoy in the 3rd lap, causing him to get off the board to free it from the noose, and letting 2 places slip away.
"That was brutal", said Ronnie who would finish 12th. "I was trying to make a tight turn and recover from all the bad turns I made today and got too close and tangled in the buoy ropes. Costly mistake. But I'm pleased with how I felt and how my knee responded." Ronnie is now 6 months out from major knee surgery from snowboarding and this would be the first real test of his recovery, having to run and handle the choppy conditions.
In the final lap, Jay was able to really start moving in the tricky waters to finish a strong 4th place amongst some names of the world's elite. "I felt really good coming into the final lap and on that last downwind leg I was picking up some bumps right off the buoy turns. Its great to get out of our isolation in Tahoe and race and hang out with these guys. One of the best parts of the races is everyone coming together. I love it."
Up next for Team Tahoe SUP is one of the biggest races in the country, Taho-e Nalu August 21 and 22nd, held on our own Lake Tahoe and will bring the best in the world to face off in the flatwater mecca for a $20,000 prize purse.

The Real Prize

2010-07-03T22:24:00.000-07:00

Its July 3rd. Big gap since last update but due to a couple new projects, I guess my blog was the odd man out. Good news is that a bit of "what I went to school for" is getting put to use and I have some additional motivations to write.
As far as this blogs' original intention, of documenting my progress as I recovered from major knee surgery, I guess it's less interesting now that I have a couple of early season wins under my belt. And last week, 20 weeks after surgery, I paddled a 9 hour, 32 mile trek from sunset to sunrise. A drop in the bucket compared to the 72 miles accomplished in 22.5 hours by the two friends I paddled alongside of. So the "if" I recover is answered. So, on to "how good" can I get?
Swimming has remained a constant, only once or twice a week, but now on 1:20 intervals and if that improves I will have to do some racing to see what kinda speed comes out of it. I like racing.
But I promise there are a ton things that I wish I could do but cant because of the injury. I cant dunk anymore. .. OK, I never could dunk. But I do not have the strength in the knee to even leg lift 15 pounds, or jump rope one leg at a time. But I am working on it. And for the most part I have been working hard on making myself better than I was.
The first goal was to be ready to do whatever I wanted when I visited Maui in may. For that goal, I worked extremely hard. But I had to make alot of concessions and felt very much less the man I was when I lived there, but I was satisfied with being capable, when before I may have been exceptional. Thats the next goal...
My race results this summer are very encouraging and I am thankful for being able to return to competition at this level. Big Mahalos go out to Kailoa Paddles and Tahoe SUP boards for the quality tools to get me there. I am also very lucky to be a part of a group of paddlers who raise the bar here in Tahoe but think globally about their potential.
It has been about the journey. Now, getting my son involved in the sport and enjoying discovering new paddle spots with him, he has progressed from fishing while standup paddling to doing his first race and now outrigger canoeing for the first time with our Lake Tahoe Waterman crew. Looks like paddling is here to stay in this family.
The second half of the summer is the next step in the recovery and I will be competing in a couple of events that will be attended by the worlds best and have attractive prize money. If I won a dollar, I may never shut up about it, so be prepared... But really I have already won the prize of being able to chase any prize at all.
Get Out There.

Hana Hou!

2010-05-24T18:08:00.000-07:00

Tahoe SUP Hana Bay 2010 from Joti Mangat on Vimeo.

Heading out to Hana is like a mini vacation if you live on Maui. And when anyone comes to visit you on Maui, you take them to Hana. Whether driving frontside or backside, whether you know the road like the back of your hand or you are a white knuckled tourist; each mile that passes on the steep, winding ocean cliff road, washes away a bit of the real world. My memory and photo collection is saturated with past visits to Hana. The canoe races, the camping trips, my bachelor party, the jungle hikes, cliff jumping pools, family vacations and the hard charging day trips with only time to slow down and point (not recommended). But I had a new excitement about this trip and the chance to standup paddle in Hana for the first time.

The best plan is no plan in these parts. Thats a struggle for most who venture to Hana, because there are so many things to see, things you heard about or saw a picture of that you have to do. So, they try to rush it, get em all in. And perhaps miss the chance to feel the vibe or discover something for themselves. Old Hawaii lives here on this beautiful isolated coast, in the deep lush valleys and in the people. For me, it has always been a strikingly beautiful place to escape to and draws my deepest of respect. Leaving the roads and trails behind, now to step onto a new platform with a new perspective and look back from outside on a stand up board...very exciting.

Hana Bay, wide but sheltered from the persistent tradewinds, is always a hub of activity of families on the beach and kids launching off the old Hana Pier. I couldnt wait to paddle out to the red sand beach past the spires of lava rock and have popping colors of reef slide under my gliding feet. Memory banks refreshed and expanded. My connection to this place strengthened. It felt good to be back and I vowed not to let so much time pass in between visits.

Paddles, Canoes, Boards, Voyages...These are nothing new to Hawaiian culture. Thats how all these islands became inhabited. Polynesians paddled. The paddling culture is deeply spiritual in Hawaii and having been a member of one of the largest, most successful outrigger canoe clubs in Hawaii, I have been lucky enough to have friends who have paddling flowing their veins. They are truly born to perpetuate it. And when around them you feel it. MANA. I get really stoked when talking with them and some have a new passion and excitement for stand up paddling. Knowing that this sport has enraptured these individuals as much as it has me is comforting and huge for the SUP future. They will push it to the limits of whats possible here with sup surf and downwinders, thats for sure. They will also look for the best board for the conditions and as the flatwater design takes hold and opens up the possibilities of touring, it will become the most popular discipline of stand up paddling in Hawaii.

Check out mylocallineup.com for all of our footage of the Maui Expedition coming soon.

Mahalos to Tahoe SUP and Kialoa Paddles for the tools that make adventures happen. Tri Paddle Maui nows carries both!

Pushing Limits

2010-05-19T21:27:00.000-07:00

After a week of Maliko Runs on a variety of downwind specific boards, the conditions presented the opportunity to take the Zephyr out and test how the flatwater board holds up on Maui's notorious downwind stretch of water. Gathered for the run, a fun group of paddlers, Kody Kerbox, Dean Christener, Talia Gangini and Rudy Castorina. The kids were anxious to get going and they blasted off right out of the gulch. Rudy suggested we sneak into the first little cove called Turtle Bay to investigate the breaking windswell. And just as we cruised into the bay, Rudy spotted a small pod of dolphins coming out. This segment of the Go Pro footage is just as we saw them and I tried to get into a position to catch them on the camera. You can tell by my big smile that I was very happy to make the detour.

Ronskies Go Pro from Fancy Chipmunk Productions on Vimeo.

The rest of the run was a blast as well. Turns out that the 12'6 Zephyr with displacement hull was able to nicely connect the bumps. Gliding better in the flats than any of the boards I had ridden on the run and able to get the speed needed to catch the swells created by the 15 to 20 mph trade winds. I was super impressed with the boards performance in all the conditions, the surf, the downwinder and of course in the flatwater touring.

Just before leaving Tahoe for this trip I had a visit with the surgeon who did my knee. It was 12 weeks out from surgery and I was asking if he thought I could get out on the mountain just to do a couple of turns before the end of season. He couldnt bring himself to ok it but thought I had made good progress and suggested I start with some light hiking on uneven terrain. A week later this video was shot. Short term goal accomplished. Needless to say, I dont think the no-impact workout and strength building benefits of standup paddling have been realized yet. My knee continues to strengthen but I dont feel like I am out of the woods yet. The first race of the season is in two weeks on Donner Lake.

The final segment of the Maui Expedition is up next and I have saved the best for last. Stay Tuned. And get yourself out there. Anywhere! Go on Tour!

Quiver

2010-05-12T21:02:00.000-07:00

Sugar Cove, Northshore, Maui. A quick 2 block golf cart ride from my family's house. My 15 year old nephew/student driver/water wizard Kody Kerbox, gladly chauffeurs the multiple paddle outs each day. This particular a.m., he was perfecting jumping off a rock in the shore break into the wave onto a shortboard sup. The Go Pro video he took of the stunt mounted on the paddle is awesome. I bet he puts it on his blog .
Anyway, while Kody was inventing the next standup paddling discipline, I took the opportunity to head up the coast before the tradewinds filled in. Just around the corner is Baldwin Beach and with a little upwind sweat equity, you can turn and run back with the wind all the way home. On the displacement hull Tahoe Zephyr, cutting into chop and wind, you can really cover some ground upwind, and extends the payoff downwind.
As much fun as that is, its not the aspect of the sport of stand up paddling most prevalent here. In the last 2 years, stand up has exploded in the islands. On Maui, if you are driving on the North Shore, on everyones trucks are the custom made downwind rockets from Sandwich Isle, Jimmy Lewis and Naish. Perfect for what they are made for; Maliko Runs, flying down big open ocean swells, reaching speeds of 12+ knots. On the South and Westside is the standup surfing culture. The Waikiki style waves are perfect for sup and probably would have gone unsurfed anyway.
All over the island, the reaction was the same. They had not seen anything like the touring style standup paddleboard from Tahoe SUP. But I think I saw alot lightbulbs going off. One day I paddled out the Tahoe Zephyr at Thousand Peaks, a mile long stretch of mellow breakers on the westside. It was inconsistent, but chest to head high sets on like the half hour, I ran it up and down back and forth to the Pali coast, about a 2 mile loop. Chatting here, small wave there, out to the whale, catch one as far in as I could, etc. Just touring the lineups, catching waves, diving down to the reef with my mask that was strapped on to the deck. A great workout and Everything that is fun to me. Made completely easy by the Zephyr's ability to glide and maximize distance per paddle stroke.
So, after paddling out deep beyond the lineup to investigate a big Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle sitting on the surface, I looked up to see the set of the morning on the horizon. A quick look back to see everyone scratching for the outside, I merely had one stroke to pivot and it was going to be a late drop in. Now, not having a leash was hindsight and the right now is about 20 people hooting at you to go. Very long for surfing, the 12'6" quickly got the speed to drop in on the overhead reef break wave. The real test was trimming it down the line, no leash, not my board and in front of everyone inside. What a blast! The Zephyr held the line, made the section and rode it to the beach.
I dont think it comes advertised able to do that, but sure good to know it can. Check back for more pics and vid and stories from the Maui Expedition as we head to Hana.

Wherever you are....Get out there. Go on Tour.

The Tour is On

2010-05-09T15:15:00.000-07:00

When I lived on Maui I would frequently tell those coming to visit me that a two week stay was barely enough time to settle into the vibe of the island. And here I am on a two week vacation counting the days down, and now I know how right I was.
It does feel like much longer though, because of how much of the island I have been seeing on the stand up board. The infamous Maui wind has kept us out of a few locations but the touring design of the Tahoe SUP Zephyr has inspired some longer expeditions, becalmed coastal runs and inland water exploration. Even in some heavy tradewind chop the stability of the Zephyr allowed us access to some pretty special places.
Waianapanapa State Park in East Maui and some of the valley rivers that run along bamboo forests have been my favorites so far. Everywhere we go, people are very curious about the design of the Zephyr since it is completely unlike what anyone has seen in the islands.

Check back in the coming days for more from the expedition journal, including pix, stories and video. photos by Joti Mangat

Aloha Easter

2010-05-09T12:42:00.000-07:00

Earlier this week, we mourned the passing and celebrated the life of our dear friend, Easter. She clearly touched the lives of her family and friends deeply and she will be missed by very many people. A group of a couple of hundred gathered together at Mama's Fish House beach to listen to the words of those closest to her and Jody honored Easters life with a beautiful Hula. We will miss her smiling face and stories and kind heart.
Easter was Aloha.
Aloha, Easter.

Happy Returns

2010-05-03T23:00:00.000-07:00

After 5 days on Oahu enjoying the simultaneous north and south swells, I have made it back to the island of Maui. I was lucky enough to get three days in a row of head high to over head surf on rented and borrowed SUP boards. Waikiki on Tues, Sunset on Wed, back to Waikiki on Thurs. But after 2 and a half years, my return to Maui was still the going to be the sweetest. Departed Honolulu at 6:30am on Friday. By 10am, I'm at Buzzy's waiting for Victor and we are heading to Maliko for my first sup maliko run. A steady 25 mph trade wind increased to about 35 and Maliko was doing its thing. Buzzy let me hop on his S.I.C. F16 with steering system, both firsts for me to try out. His custom board from last years Molokai channel race is clearly the perfect vehicle for this situation and after I opted to switch with him for a 12'6" early into it, he showed me how to use it. Having done over 100 Maliko runs in the 12 years I had lived on Maui exclusively on outrigger canoes, this new perspective on a SUP was mind expanding. Reaffirming what I already knew that Maliko is one of the best downwind coastal runs in the world and at the pinnacle of extreme (and most challenging) discipline of standup paddling.
The cherry on top of my first day on Maui was that I got the call that the Tahoe SUP 12"6' Zephyr had arrived and to come pick it up. Perfect that it made it before the weekend and two extra days of exploring the flatwaters of Maui. My son had the honor of being the first person to paddle a Tahoe SUP in Hawaiian waters. I was competing in the Kaanapali Klassic 1.3 mile Ocean Swim and he paddled along the course from Canoe Beach to Black Rock. He had so much fun, he paddled back to the start as well.
This week to come we will be setting out on expeditions on all sides of Maui and filming and documenting our experiences. Our goal is to access some of the seldom seen coastlines, explore inaccessable areas and introduce Tahoe SUP's touring board style to the people of Maui. I will be leaking out some of the pictures and the locations we visit here on the blog. So stayed tuned and get yourself out there wherever you are. And Go on Tour.

IMG00540-20100420-1018.jpg

2010-04-20T11:50:00.001-07:00

Paddling cancelled

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Blast from the Past

2010-04-14T22:28:00.000-07:00

Quick story. Took this pic yesterday on my way to work at Northstar Village. Good phone pic. The picture is primarily about the jacket. I have had this jacket since 1991 as an ocean lifeguard in Encinitas, CA. I have dragged this thing all over the place, worn it at least once in every year I've owned it. There have been many attempts to convince me to cast it away. But its in Great shape.
I was running out the door for work yesterday and in the closet the red caught my eye. Grabbed it, pulled it on and the fit was still the way Patagonia intended it to be 20 yrs ago. I was flooded with memories of that brief period in my life. The Cali guys called me Jersey and East Coast Boy. I surfed alone all the time. I loved it. Winter was colder than I had expected. I jumped out of a Coast Guard helicopter into the ocean. I jumped off the roof of a fire truck into a flooded gorge at night to rescue people trapped on the hood of a washed away pickup. Thats what I was talking about.
Although the style and colors scream of Baywatch that televised as a series that same year, I dont think we even had a TV or knew of the show and I can tell you some of the ocean, river and cliff rescues we preformed would be on any of todays real life rescue shows.
Anyway, I took the pic with my phone, pulled over on the side of the road and it turned out sweet with the Encinitas inaugural lifeguard service logo, the sew job on the sleeve from skateboard spill back in '95, the new Tahoe SUP 'Washoe Tracker' fin, nicely framing out Lookout Mtn, Northstar.
The pic even caught the attention of two mates who still own the Standard Issue from the '91 staff (awaiting photo confirmation). Its very effective time travel when after 15 yr gaps you can laugh with the people who were next to you back then.
Very encouraging period right now, as my knee is showing big jumps in strength and stamina. I should say that I know this because I have not taken one step in the last 80 days without taking full inventory of each movement of my knee. The checklist is shorter each day. Speed, strength and stamina increase almost daily. Swimming will never be as fun paddling, but I have gotten to a level I would not have foreseen when I started back in the pool 7 weeks ago. Which means I got speed. the weather has finally allowed for paddling 3 to 4 times a week. Which is fine because I do not want to drop off this great crosstrain with swimming. See where it goes.
Go On Tour.

Alpine Paddling

2010-04-09T18:56:00.000-07:00

Yes, we have new snow with more on the way.

This beautiful shot taken yesterday on north Lake Tahoe is proof of the lake level accumulation and the choppy change of season water conditions lately. El Nino (aka Chris Farley) instigating a tug war between winter and summer, soaring high temps then snowfall in footage.
Regardless, we are out there, me, enjoying the brand new 14ft Zephyr out for its maiden voyage. And Dave Defoe, stealthing past in the background on his new toy, going so fast we had to slow the tape down to even make sure we saw him.

Everything has been progressing smoothly. My knee continues to strengthen and I work it hard daily with the bike, swim, row machine or sup and now the hardest one.....the STAIRMASTER. A real killer honestly. Last doctor visit, I was able to coax him into allowing me take a snowboard run. Greens only. Cool. So I went and got coffee at Wild Cherries and slipped on ice in the parking lot. HELLOOOO!.... I see what he means...
Still getting my swim on.
In a real comfort zone, 3,000yds 4x's a week, interval down to 1:25. I know I have said it before but until you have done 20 x 100's, listening to something like Hendrix's Valley of Neptune, then you're just looking at the bottom of a pool.
I have had the added motivation of an upcoming 2 week trip to Maui to see family and friends but also get out and do some (alot) of downwind Maliko runs, now for the first time on a SUP. When I lived on Maui's north shore, I would do OC-1 Maliko's as much as possible and I can say I experienced some of the highest highs and the lowest lows on that stretch of coast. I cant wait.
The Quiksilver Lake Tahoe race series is huge this summer with 6 races. In addition, when the Naish series starts up in May, that adds 6 more races. Still waiting to hear what races I will travel to but the focus is in on the big 2 up here. Tahoe-Nalu, August 21-22. A big purse is up for grabs and sound like we will have a Battle of Paddle type lineup. The 22 mile Tahoe crossing in Sept will also be a money event for the Elite class. I didnt have a ton of fun on last years crossing but you know what they say about piss poor preparation.

Don't be here

2010-03-28T22:20:00.000-07:00

Went for a dip unexpectedly last week. After an hour of fighting a steady side wind on North Lake Tahoe, paddling around crystal bay point and heading back to Tahoe Vista, which puts you about half a mile away from shore, the wind took it up a few notches harder. The heavy chop and bumps really started to wear down my knee and I began to feel the reaction time slowing down...and the chop getting heavier. Sure enough, wearing only boardshorts, a paddle jersey and 7ml booties, air temp in low 40's, water temp maybe 40, and wind blowing about 13mph, a piece of chop shoved the nose of my board and in I went. It was kinda like bouncing into and out of the water. In a split second I was back standing and trying to get back into a paddle rythym. Jay was right on me asking about how I was and honestly I wasnt really cold. My new Helly Hansen top and Xcel booties were doing thier job. but very quickly I realized that biologically, blood was exiting my extremeties to protect my core body temp. this left my fingers quickly becoming useless with the wind chill also taking hold. The nearest area to beach was about half a mile and the chop was building. I was miserable. Making it back to the car was clearly out and I told Jay I was heading in at Dog Beach to make some sense of this and get my hands warm. I would fall in again before that.
Thankfully the sun was peeking out and upon getting to the beach, the top layer of sand was warm and I shoved my hands in.
Jay had another 20 minutes to paddle to get the car and he did it almost entirely on one side as the wind continued to pick up.
I found a wall to sit behind to block the wind and did some sit up and pushups to keep warm until Jay got back with the car. This being King's Beach, no one really paid any mind to a weirdo in surf trunks on the beach on this blustery day. It would be about 30 minutes till Jay arrived to take me back to my car. Kinda worst case scenario day but alls well that ends well.

On the Water. Butter Sessions.

2010-03-21T21:01:00.000-07:00

This aint the plan, man. I planned on posting twice a week, once if I slack. So 10 days passed and much good has transpired. Tahoe is heating up under high pressure and I have been on the water paddling 3 times this past week. Each day a brilliant sun heats the day up to only the low 50's. But thats all you need for board shorting it, booties and paddle jersey. And Sunscreen. This month Lake Tahoe has looked so inviting. The 3 days I got in should be like 15 with all the mornings complete butter. The stand up sessions of up to an hour 15 minutes, took some recovery for my knee. But I felt nothing but elation while I was paddling because...
Since this early season warm up started we have been enjoying the new production model of Tahoe SUP's 12'6" Zephyr. All have agreed that this model is faster than our race boards from last summer. And, they are available to everyone!! Alot of people have just got instantly faster just by getting one. Look for one at the next race near you and it will probably be in front of you. I'm just saying.
We are very excited about what our race boards will look like but in the mean time we are training on the new Zephyr and it is the fastest board ever from Tahoe board works.
Mahalo, Tahoe SUP, I cant wait to reciprocate for your efforts.
So I stand up paddle, swim, bike, work on my feet. But stairs still suck. Knee still swells. It looks freakish in comparison to the other leg. 7 weeks since operation. I was given a 12 week recovery.
Keep on Keepin on.
The Big News is that for the first time in my competitive swimming life (30+ years). I train and I am not bored. Lets face it, swimming is the most anti social of all sports. You spend most of the time, hypoxically staring at a black line on a pool bottom. Or even if you are cruising over some popping reef in Honolua its mostly a silent, solo experience. But since I am only pool training (for now) I wanted to try the H20 Audio 'Interval'. holds your ipod shuffle and has integrated waterproof ear buds that really work. Its unreal having music of your choice, blaring in your head while holding a streamline pushoff, not having to listen to the chatter wafting in from the hot tub and if you select your music properly you can really groove in on desired heart rate. 45 mins and 3,000yds before you know it.
Especially with some new Dino Jr.

Two steps forward, one step back

2010-03-09T19:45:00.000-08:00

The cane thing was short lived. After the knee got a taste of the freedom of full weight bearing pressure, everything began to progress quickly. After skipping physical therapy during the Sonoma visit and returning after over a week, the PT had to keep rechecking her previous measurements of my progress. Apparently in the week of missed appointments I had jumped way ahead in my rehab. I have coached myself most of my life and do a pretty good job of pushing myself.
She hadnt seen me giving much pressure at all to the knee before. Now I walked in unassisted, did the one foot balance test on some kinda sponge. Passed. Then she gave me the half dome of an exercise ball and said this will be a challenge to stand on, so do in front of the mirror for 30 sec at a time. I stepped on the ball with a narrow stance well inside shoulder width. Having the mirror there was almost cheating. I stood straight up and told her this would be great with a paddle. She gave me a 4ft long stick and I began studying my form in the mirror and asked her if I could just take strokes on the ball for like 10 minutes. She guessed so.
I was excited.
Well, that was over week ago and I had a nice training routine going, biking, swimming, stretching, strength building etc. Then Circumstance raised its ugly head and I stepped into a vicious work cycle of 10 hour days and extended time on my feet. Which lead to fatigue, swelling and soreness and no blog posts and no attention for the knee. The wave of progression was quickly replaced by just trying to get the rest needed for the next day.
Hopefully, now I can begin to recreate that routine that led to the big strides and building of strength. Not easy for all of us with day jobs.

Glimmer

2010-02-26T22:07:00.000-08:00

When the snow falls this hard, 2.5 inches on my car while I swam, You dont realize how hard you are swimming or how far. The extreme conditions are so distracting, the visibility so obscured, its not like work, its like a Tim Burton movie. In between my kicking sets the kickboard accumulated an inch. The sign should read, "Lap Swim for crazy people Only"
Anyway, you see in the picture that I have graduated from crutches to a cane and found quite the stylish one. On monday we drove down the hill to Sonoma Valley for a couple of days. Upon arriving, looking in the back of the truck, no crutches. They would be in the garage in Truckee. Luckily, Sonoma is silly with thrift/antique stores and the clerk swore that Snoop Dog himself had dropped it off. Either way, it forced the issue to challenge the knee more. It payed off. After the first day of muscle soreness, enough strength and confidence had returned that I would find myself in the middle of a room or the yard and look back to see the cane resting against a wall.
It has been a month and a day since the surgery and the last 3 days feel like leaps and bounds of improvement. I have enough of a kick now and have done away with the pull buoy. One foot pushoffs still but now I am fast enough to say I am "training". Base pace is 1:30 and able to hold 6 x 100's on 1:20. Also building on the bike up to half and hour and elevating my heart rate above aerobic if I want. I think having the Olympics on the t.v. at the gym has helped.
Steady as she goes.

The Wall

2010-02-21T21:12:00.000-08:00

Drained. My enthusiasm has left for now. Poisoned by a gnarly cocktail of a plateau of progress, frustration with the pain, the lengthy restrengthening of my quadriceps and long work hours which lead to skipping my daily rehab routine. Also, the abscence of good luck has affected a grant for a home loan and Ivy's wrist which is suspected to be fractured.
But maybe sharing a story about yesterdays physical therapy session will help cheer me up. While the P.T. is bending my knee, forcing it past what I consider pain and into some kinda blinding flashbulb, she found it neceassary to speak with her hands, to descriptively tell me about how each of her teenage daughters chose to paint thier bedrooms. And what colors they chose.....and possibly why they chose those colors, but I cant be sure because I could only focus on the inflection of her voice, trying to sense when she would end using her hands to talk so I could begin to brace for the next white hot spotlight of knee contraction. While I have never had any reason to hate pink trim around closet and bathroom doors, I feel that if run across any in the near future, I may come undone.

Injury Video (the agony of defeat)

2010-02-15T10:33:00.000-08:00

No internet access for over a week thanks to the shittiest customer service ever from Suddenlink cable. If you work for them and are reading this, you suck!
IN the meantime, I have been swimming this last week, up to 3,000 yds a day. It takes about 50 mins then I do some aqua jogging. Thats when the full resentment of the error I made to put me in this condition, rises to the surface. Never considered that I would really need to walk back and forth in a pool and have it be difficult. But here I am and I really get into it. Its a bit challenging when the wind is blowing and the snow flying and my head is freezing but I know i need to do this. Ever consider swimming 3 grand with open turns and one leg pushoffs? yesterday though, I progressed to flip turns for about half of the session and completed a set on an interval, 8x100's on 1:40.
The physical therapist ok'd me to ride the stationary bike last week. Since I can bend the knee to 113 degrees, I am done with the knee machine and I can make a full pedal rotation, albeit with a little grunt of discomfort.
The attached video is a little montage of the week before christmas. A couple of days before the injury on Christmas Day, Jay and I tested out the new production model of the Tahoe SUP 12'6" Zephyr. Beautiful board, bamboo veneer, much thicker and vertical on the rail. Fuller volume all the way through and nie deep V nose. My nephew from Maui, Kody Kerbox was filming and was getting quite nervous at my suggestions to try the board out on quite a chilly day. Then of course, the actual injury was also filmed by Kody, but I edited in some dramatic soundtrack. The 7 yr old in the Max costume dancing to the Thriller video is my nephew Kyler during his holiday visit. It was tons of fun having the gang here from Maui despite being taken out of the equation early. So had to make the vid with a lighthearted tone.
Seems that versions of the Battle of the Paddle ad that my mug appears in, is also in Stand Up Paddle Journal. I am calling it the all-brother-in -law issue. Besides me being in it, Buzzy contributed a shot of a guy sup surfing with his dog at Maaelea. Then in the credits is a pic of Buzzy and a little bio. The pic was taken by the third bro in law, Joti Mangat. Good Times.

Say Hi to your knee

2010-02-03T20:17:00.000-08:00

Well, pictures don't lie. However optimistic I remain and whatever strides I make in range of movement (95 degrees today), the fact is that now 9 days after surgery, the knee, is far from resembling my own. The small incision on the left is where they scoped out two 10mm portions of cartilage. The incision on the right is where they implanted the harvested cartilage.
Still cannot put any weight on the leg, but with the help of an exercise ball, I started doing crunches in sets of 33, alternating with quad lifts then finishing with some pushups with my hips on the ball. The quad lifts are nothing short of sickening. I cannot reach full extension due to what I believe is the atrophy of the quad muscle along with the swelling. It also seems I get increased swelling after the exercise session.
Although I am encouraged by the progress of the degree of bending, its the difficulty in straightening the knee that will become a big obstacle. I guess this is where the P.T. comes in. Time to put a call into my lead pipe hittin, therapy counselor MaryEllen, to let me know if I should either slow it down or stop being such a wus.

Once a swimmer

2010-02-02T11:32:00.000-08:00

Stitches were removed yesterday and Doc thinks everything has progressed nicely, but I will be on crutches for another 2 weeks. He also is allowing me to begin swimming next week to which required alot of clarifying on his definition of swimming. For the first time in at least 20 yrs I have a genuine excitement about getting back in the pool. Not since college has swimming been a priority for me, but always a useful training tool for all the other aquatic competitions I gravitate to. I guess I will see what a solid month of swimming does for my fitness and then decide how much to stay involved with the pool.
The good news is the pool is outside. The bad news is the pool is outside. At over 6,500 feet in elevation here in the Sierras and El Nino pumping week long storms, the snow banks on deck have been up to 4ft high already. Below freezing temps will give weight to the voice in your head..."For who, for what?"
I was swimming 5 times a week for the two weeks leading up to surgery, an attempt at getting in a groove and fostering this desire to test the water. Conveniently located, just across the street, the invigorating smell of chlorine can be detected from our deck. The reward for 45mins to an hour of high altitude outdoor swimming, is much much greater than the price of enduring a minute of walking across the icy deck, basically nude and jumping in water that about 18 degrees colder than your body temp.
A couple of hundred yards gets the blood flowing and the water begins to feel perfect. On winter days when its not snowing the mountain sun beats down, kinda tropically and its not uncommon to get a goggle tan. And in a heavy snow, although its possible to inhale a golf ball size snowflake when taking a breath, the environment is surreal. The steam and snow reduce the visibility of the other side of the pool and in the blink of a breath you catch a freeze frame of a single falling snow flake. No two the same.

Feelin the Force

2010-01-31T09:25:00.000-08:00

I had to pass on the family plan yesterday; head into Reno, post up in the Grand Sierra Resort Casino, get a big suite and prepare all nite for the Sunday morning Arsenal vs Man U soccer match that is being shown on the big screen in the hotel's huge sports bar. Being fresh off the meds and feeling like I should have stayed on them a few more days, cruising around a smoky casino floor, losing $50 bucks at the whellchair accessable Wheel of Fortune, and the chance of stirring it up with some Man U hooligan in the bar dont sound like part of the healing process. That, or, I would just like that exact scene too much. I should find out about that wheel chair access. Damn, I shoulda gone.
Pain in the ass crutching down two sets of stairs last nite to let the dogs out but it was a good oppurtunity to leave the second floor for the first time in 5 days.
When the Force is strong with certain individuals or groups of individuals, the news I received yesterday and the timing of said news becomes un-bizzare and feels more commonly, I think, like a highway sign that reminds you your location, direction and assurance that you are not lost.
Doing my time on the passive motion machine yesterday, finishing up the recent copy of The Surfer's Journal, I was admiring in all ways, what a superior publication it is. The photos and writing are of such the quality that you can easily find a full couple of years worth of issues strewn about most surfer's living rooms, bedrooms, bathrooms or maybe preserved nicely on a bookshelf next to a Yoda doll. Best of all, there are only 3 advertisements, inside cover, back page and back cover. Upon closing the magazine and setting it down, began visions of boat surfing Western Australia and sailing a 47 foot catamaran into a narrow channel and dropping anchor right between the firing left and right barrels.
"Ding". A text from MattyJ.
"Dude, I'm sitting in my car outside a swim meet in South Jersey in a snowstorm reading the new issue of Surfer's Journal and you are in an ad for Battle of the Paddle on the back page. Starting line, wearing baby blue hang loose Maui hat."
Thats definitely not normal. Not only have I never found out I was in a surf mag while I was reading it before...I have never been in a surf mag, period. It is me, I had seen the shot on BoP website and it was one of the very few I was in of hundreds of pics. though the pic is really "of" the guys lined up with me, world champ longboarder, Colin Mcphilips, Maximus etc, it is the best one for an advertisment of the event. Captures the full scene on the beach and suggests the intensity of what is about to happen in the water. What we all are sharply focusing on, seconds before the start, is the head high set that is cresting at the first turn buoy, shifting the horizon, and about to close out the entire section of the race course.
Ready, GO!

My copy is on its way from Reno.

off the meds

2010-01-29T16:45:00.000-08:00

day 5 and having a go at no meds. what i got is an achy flu like feeling and two persciptions of Percaset screaming at my face. up to 70 degress range on the knee bender, some boring shit. The big news is that I took a shower! Yes, yes. that strange odor was linked to my uncleanliness and there is much rejoicing in the house. But I do feel a bit lifted after unraveling my ace bandage and rank sterile bandages and having a look at my knee and stitches. Doesnt look like my knee, swollen and black and blue, two incisions, looking more like I defaulted on a mob loan, but I saran wrapped the whole thing and got into the shower. Immediately and disturbingly picturing Doc's Saran wrap toga circa '87.
Just finished reading and strongly reccomend "the iron will of shoeshine cats".
Hopefully tomorrow's big story will be "leaving the house"

Adios I.V.

2010-01-28T19:15:00.000-08:00

Since knee surgery on Monday 4 days ago, I have been injecting myself with the anti inflammatory Toradol every 6 hours day and nite into a port fixed into my arm. Two syringes each time. First day was no big deal, I was still feeling the effects of the spinal. But the last two days has been like injecting searing hot razor blades into my vein. apparently each day the body rejects the injection more intensley rather than getting used to it. Today was also the last day. So I watched a couple youtube vids on how to remove the damn thing and that was it. Very happy that routine is over
Third day on the motion machine, operating 7-8 hours at 60 degrees with little pain. Just toe touch pressure on crutches and spend almost the whole day on the couch, strapped into the movement mahine and the ice water machine. This sucks.